High Water on the Broad & Savannah

Doc Stephens paddles through the mist on the rain swollen North Fork of the Broad River.

On Jan. 17-18, Doc Stephens, April Ingle and I set out to explore the Broad and Savannah for more pre-Paddle Georgia scouting, and for the umpteenth time this winter, heavy rains altered our plans.

Our destination was the Broad River’s whitewater section; but on Jan. 16 the rain fell in buckets over the little watershed, and what was a manageable whitewater run at just below five-feet on the Carlton river gauge became a torrent suitable only for experts and those with a death wish. In a 24-hour period, water levels jumped five feet. Now 15 days later, the Broad still has not dropped below the “safe for novices” level of five feet. On Jan. 25, it topped flood stage at 18 feet.

Launching after lunch at the confluence of the Broad and Hudson rivers.

Undammed and free-flowing the Broad responds to rain like a river should, but this provides a bit of a conundrum for paddle trip planning:

To see what the river looks like at 10 feet, click on the “Broad River High Water Video/Photos” link at http://www.broadriveroutpost.com/ This will help explain the conundrum. If we get heavy rains on June 18 this year, the whitewater section may be unsuitable for our group and we’ll devise an alternate route. Don’t worry, we’ve got a plan…but we’re hoping for normal summer water levels so keep your fingers, toes and paddles crossed.

At places, the Broad splashes against the outcroppings of high bluffs as it winds its way through the Piedmont.

For now, the high water has simply prevented us from enjoying the Broad’s whitewater that includes a six-foot waterfall locals refer to as “Nose Bleed” and other Class II rapids like Rooster Tail and Horseshoe. There is among the rocks and shoals one particularly ornery outcropping dubbed “Canoe Eating Rock.”

We took a look at the flow at the Hwy. 172 Bridge and quickly decided to scout our alternate high water route–a pleasant flatwater section upstream from the Broad’s baddest whitewater.

The route which begins on the North Fork of the Broad River is narrow and intimate with meetings of the Middle Fork of the Broad and the Hudson River along the way. 

April Ingle noses her kayak up a branch to check out a small cascade.

At high flows, with the rain still coming down, we made quick work of the 10-mile paddle path. Along the way we spotted a river otter, slipped beneath high rocky bluffs and abandoned stone bridge piers and even explored up creeks that spilt into the river over pictureque cascades. Even at high water with the sandbars and playplaces underwater, there was plenty to find.

We finished the trip at Broad River Outpost where downstream the real whitewater begins. Good Lord willing and the creek don’t rise come the last week of June, our journey will begin just a few miles upstream from the Outpost at another Broad River outfitter facility–SlowWater, a bucolic piece of property off U.S. 29. Otherwise, we’ll move further upstream.

The following day, Ben Emanuel, Bryan Nuse, Larry Castillo and Kelly Frazer joined April and I for a tour of the Savannah River from Savannah Rapids Pavillion at the head of the Augusta Canal to downtown Augusta.

Spanish moss hangs over the Savannah marking the fall line and entry into the Coastal Plain at Augusta.

Again, high water met us. We’re told that summer time low flows will make the last day of Paddle Georgia a tedious chore of picking your way through shallow shoals, but on this day the river was rolling and there were no shoals to be seen–just the waves created by them.

Believe it or not, the Savannah does include a Class II rapid in this section, though it can be avoided by taking an alternate route on the big, wide Savannah. It is after all, passing over the fall line between the Piedmont and the Coastal Plain, and this makes the last day of Paddle Georgia a “watershed” moment as we pass from one of Georgia’s four geological regions to another.

Along the way the Savannah will delight. There’s something for everyone

The Augusta Canal headgates dwarf April Ingle at the start of the historic waterway.

on this paddle: history in the canal, shoals and rapids for the whitewater enthusiasts, wide expanses of flatwater for the touring kayaks, abandoned rock quarries, islands, impressive riverfront homes, industry, “authorized” crew graffiti on bridge pylons, views of downtown Augusta, houseboats and, I am told, the remote chance to see an alligator.

Groan! The portage around and across the Augusta Canal. It will get your morning started right on Day 7 of our journey.

Heck, we’re even throwing in a short (though some may argue, long) portage from the canal to the river.

On thing’s for sure, you’re not likely to get bored on this run.

Downtown Augusta's riverfront.

 

Long-abandoned riverside rock quarry offers a paddling diversion from the wide Savannah.

Ringing in the New Year on the Broad

A wet, drizzly Broad River greeted us on New Year's Eve.

It has become something of a tradition…in 2007, I spent New Year’s Day on the Ocmulgee; in 2008 Doc Stephens and I camped on the Flint to the sounds of New Year’s fireworks; on the eve of 2009, Doc, April Ingle and I made a cold journey down the Coosawattee and this year, Doc, Kelly Frazer and I ventured on the Broad and Savannah.

Much to my chagrin, taking unintentional swims on cold rivers in 40-degree weather is also becoming something of a tradition…but these are the risks we take to bring in the New Year right and organize a fun (and safe) trip in the warm, sunny days of late June!

Doc Stephens plies the calm waters of Fishing Creek near Hesters Ferry Campground.

The two-day trip showed us the last miles of the Broad as it empties into the Savannah and Lake Strom Thurmond and the vast expanses of water between Russell Dam (just upstream from the Broad and Savannah’s confluence) and Clark’s Hill Dam(some 32 miles downstream). The Savannah is a big river and Lake Strom Thurmond, at 71,000 acres, is the second-largest artificial lake east of the Mississippi.

Our New Year’s Eve paddle began in a cold drizzle at Ga. Hwy 17 southeast of Elberton. A week earlier, the Broad was out of its banks, and on this day,

A massive beaver lodge flanks the Broad as it spreads out into Lake Strom Thurmond.

it was still running swift and strong (5.5 feet at the gauge in Carlton with a discharge of close to 2000 cubic feet per second). We sped down the river with help from the current, ventured up Wahatch Creek, ran into some beavers, slipped over shoals washed out by high water and before we knew it we were upon Anthony Shoals. The Shoals boast of beautiful spider lilies in the spring, but on this day, the shoals were buried under churning water and waves.

We navigated the upper shoals just fine, but when it came to the channel blasted out of the shoals years ago to make way for river barges, we were confronted with a quarter mile of standing waves, complete with some healthy canoe swampy holes…which we deftly found.

Doc navigated the shoals without incident, but Kelly and I hit a big hole early, filling our boat with just enough water to make the rest of the ride very squirrelly. Just when we thought we might get through relatively dry, another wave and rock washed us over.

Lesson learned…$600 drysuits might be a good investment if New Year’s Day paddles continue as tradition (April and I swamped on the Coosawattee too!) and a 5.5-foot flow in June is going to make for some interesting adventures at Anthony Shoals during Paddle Georgia. For the record, average flows for the last week of June are about 3.75 feet.

After a quick recovery and even quicker paddle to our vehicle at Ga. 79, we warmed up in the car, dried our clothes at a laundromat in Elberton and found refuge for New Year’s night at Richard Russell State Park.

Sunny skies warmed our paddle across Strom Thurmond.

New Year’s Day found us back on the Broad in beautiful, sunny weather.

Though some loath lake paddles, Paddle Georgia 2010 will include a seven and a half mile jaunt on Lake Strom Thurmond.

It’s a chance to meditate on a river “dying” behind a dam; it’s also a paddle that includes some impressive scenery.

Where the Broad’s current slacks into the lake, a large flat wetland area is home to at least one very active family of beavers. One member paddled next to Doc for several seconds before slapping its tail and sending a spray of water across his bow. A massive den marked the creature’s home  just downstream.

Doc Stephens paddles beneath a bluff on Lake Strom Thurmond.

Further downstream near the confluence of the Broad and Savnnah the lake laps at the base of what must have been an impressive bluff on the banks of the old Savannah. The rock wall and adjacent knoll stretches some 130 feet above the lake, offering beautiful panromic views across the lake into South Carolina. We scampered to the top and took it in, contemplating the prospects of a mid-summer leap into inviting waters below (provided favorable depths!)

With the exception of the home and dock-lined south bank of the Broad River arm of the lake, the section we paddled was wild and undeveloped. Bobby Brown State Park flanks the north bank of the Broad and once on the mainstem of the Savannah, Mt. Carmel Campground and the Sumter National Forest cover the South Carolina bank, while on the Georgia side, as-yet-undeveloped real estate and the Corps of Engineer’s Hesters Ferry Campground keep the banks green.

Kelly Frazer looks east into South Carolina atop bluffs on the Georgia shore.

Sure, I’d rather paddle a river. Lakes–especially 71,000-acre lakes just don’t belong  in Georgia where there is only one natural lake (Banks in South Georgia). But these massive man-made reservoirs have become part of the landscape of our rivers. For any Georgian born after 1960 and the heyday of dam building in our state, these reservoirs are as much a part of our state map as the Okefeenokee Swamp or Brasstown Bald.

Perhaps by venturing upon our state’s altered river landscape, we can understand what’s been lost and what we’ve gained in the “development” of our rivers so that in the future as we face “to dam or not to dam” decisions in the name of water supply we can draw upon the perspective we gained afloat on a 71,000-acre inland “sea.”

Hesters Ferry Campground and Boat Ramp, including this dock, will be our final destination on the lake during Paddle Georgia.

Hester’s Ferry Campground and boat ramp will be our destination for the lake paddle. With the benefit of a tailwind from the north, we covered the seven miles on the lake in about three hours with ample time for exploring the sites. That’s good news, for at the end of this day during Paddle Georgia we will load up our boats and truck them some forty miles around the rest of Strom Thurmond to begin our journey anew below Clark’s Hill Dam. Augusta awaits on the other side.

Happy New Year, and look for Paddle Georgia registration to begin in late Janaury or early February. It’s going to be another great trip.

Joe Cook

Jan. 3, 2010

Savannah Slips through dams to Augusta

Tom Cofer paddles into the mist on the Savannah River below Clarks Hill Dam

My first-ever canoe excursion on the Savannah was at 26,000 cfs–about four times its normal flow for this time of year. The 12-mile trip with Paddle Georgia veteran and Aiken, South Carolina resident Tom Cofer and Savannah Riverkeeper Frank Carl was a quick one. Pushed down river by the releases from Clarks Hill Dam, we made the trip–including a short portage around Stevens Creek Dam–in less than five hours.

The Savannah has its charms, and during Paddle Georgia we will venture for two days on this river that separates Georgia and South Carolina, beginning below Clarks Hill Dam on Day 6 of the trip and finishing in Augusta on Paddle Georgia’s final day. The route will take us through the dammed and diverted Savannah as it tumbles over the fall line in its rush to the Atlantic.

From its headwaters (formed by South Carolina’s Seneca River and the Tugaloo River), the Savannah winds some 313 miles to the town that shares its name.

Clarks Hill Dam holds back 71,535-acre Strom Thurmond Lake

The section we paddled is part river, part lake, part industrial history museum, starting with Clarks Hill Dam–a massive Corps of Engineers project that backs up 71,535 acres of water in Strom Thurmond Lake (yes, named after the legendary South Carolina Senator).

Tom told us that as a boy his school went on a field trip to the dam shortly after it was completed in 1954. “It was about the largest thing we’d ever seen,” he said. Construction of the dam helped electrify the South, and coincided with the construction of the U.S. Government’s  nuclear facility down river where the tritium and plutonium were processed for nuclear bombs.

Clarks Hill releases push you past Germain Island, a massive island uninhabitated except for three holes of the Champion’s Retreat Golf Course. Frank, the Riverkeeper, explained that houses were planned for the island along with the course, but the water table was too high for both septic systems and sanitary sewer lines. On this day, floodwaters had much of the island under water. Good call to leave the island mostly untouched!

The railroad bridge at Woodlawn Station marks more civilization and as the river becomes lake-like again behind Stevens Creek Dam, riverfront homes and their docks line up on both sides of the river.

Tom Cofer portages around Stevens Creek Dam. The Dam is operated by South Carolina Electric and Gas who allowed us to portage using their property.

Stevens Creek Dam, built between 1912 and 1914, includes a lock for navigational purposes, but has not been operational since the 1950s, meaning that canoes and kayaks will be toted. Don’t worry it’s a short, relatively painless portage around the historic structure.

A view of the Savannah at the Augusta Canal diversion dam.

Below Stevens Creek, it’s a short mile to yet another historic dam structure–this one at the mouth of the Augusta Canal system–a feat of engineering dating back to the 1840s. The Augusta Canal diversion dam sends water into the manmade canal which parrallels the Savannah for about seven miles to downtown Augusta. Constructed primarily to harness the power of the river to turn mills, it helped turn Augusta into an industrial complex to be envied in the late 1800s.

Our biggest adventure of the day occured just below Stevens Creek Dam along a mid-river strip of river bottom known as Stallings Island–a piece of land owned by The Archaeological Conservancy and protected because of its tremendous historic and archaelogical significance. The site is home to the oldest documented pottery in North America, and visitors are prohibited on the island.

For reasons I still need to investigate, the Conservancy maintains several donkeys and goats on the island, and those critters created our excitment.

Toting the nanny to safety.

Midway down the island’s flank, we heard a blood-curdling scream  come from the thickets of greenbrier and cane that crowded the river bank. We spotted a donkey first and assumed it was his braying, but then the call came again, desperate and distraught. As we neared the commotion we spotted a small black goat at the feet of the donkey, bleating and struggling to right itself amongst the underbrush.

It had become fatally tangled in greenbrier–one vine wrapped around its neck, another cutting into a foreleg. We ventured to shore and cut the goat loose only to have the panicked and exhausted animal charge right back into the greenbrier’s trap. We pulled the nanny out again and ultimately lifted and carried her to more friendly terrain further inland where she rested and finally came to her senses.

Perhaps she might have ultimately freed herself or perhaps the donkey, who seemed very concerned about the goat, might have freed her, but I like to think Tom, Frank and I saved a goat that day.

Savannah Riverkeeper Frank Carl paddles below Stevens Creek Dam

While many may cringe at the idea of portaging around the Savannah’s fall line dams in Augusta, paddling this section of river provides a window to our past and shows us the critical role our rivers played in both ancient and modern history.

I, for one, am excited about learning more about the rich culture shaped by the Savannah.

Joe Cook

Nov. 23, 2009

Let the Scouting Begin

Large boulders create a playground at in one of the Broad's bends en route to Clarks Hill Lake and its confluence with the Savannah.

It’s late summer and that means it’s time to begin scouting for Paddle Georgia 2010. One of the great perks of organizing Paddle Georgia is being “forced” to explore different Georgia rivers each year. In 2010, we’ll battle the Broad and slide down the Savannah…assuming we are blessed with enough water.

The trip down the Broad and Savannah will not be without its logistical challenges. There is one massive lake to get around (Clarks Hill) that will require a portage of nearly 70 miles (don’t worry you won’t have to carry your boat). All told there are three dams to manuver around–plus a portage from the Augusta canal back to the main channel of the Savannah. How are we going to do it all? Don’t ask me now; that’s why we scout it.

Earlier this month April Ingle and I had the pleasure of exploring the Broad from Ga. 72 to Ga. 79…one thing about the Broad River is that it is traversed by far too many highways including the number 7 in the name. This 29-mile section is characterized by flat water interrupted by occasional gravel bars with riffles and a couple of shoals. The highlight is Anthony Shoals–a garden of rocks and water that stretches a quarter mile from one river bank to the other just before the Broad loses itself in Clarks Hill Lake at Ga. 79.

Anthony Shoals from its base, looking upriver. They say a channel (middle of photo) was cut here to move barges upriver during the early days of settlement...talk about undaunted courage.

To say that this set of shoals is impressive is an understatement. To give you and idea of the expansiveness of this fall line feature, Anthony Shoals is more than double the width of the largest fall line shoals on the Flint and Ocmulgee. When you stand atop the rocks at the base of Anthony Shoals and look upstream at the maze of water and rocks, you understand that something very dramatic happened here geologically. 

April body surfs through one of Anthony's maze-like shoals.

What Anthony Shoals has in width, it lacks in depth and fall. At the below normal 220 cfs flow that we paddled, picking through the rock islands and shoals was a tedious process with only marginal whitewater rewards near the end of the run. Anthony Shoals is not the Flint’s Yellow Jacket Shoals (Class III); even in normal flows it can’t rival Lamar Mill Rapid on the Ocmulgee (Class II-III).  In high flows Anthony approaches Class II status.

But, it is a beautiful sight, and if we are lucky during Paddle Georgia 2010 we will be able to catch some late blooming shoals lilies that find a home at Anthony.

A snapping turtle scoots to the safety of deeper water.

Upstream, the river is remote and shallow with abundant sand bars…and wildlife. We came face-to-face with five otters in two separate parties during our journey. They surfaced and snorted at us as they took cover in their den behind a ball of roots in the river bank–peering out occasionally to check out their intruders. A snapping turtle bowed up at us when we shot its photo; osprey hunted before us; we caught a beaver off guard during daylight hours and a bald eagle took flight as we slipped beneath its perch. Egrets and herons (blue and green) were plentiful and the fish were active. In two days of travel, we saw all of six people on the river. I’m certain the otters outnumbered us–at least on this weekend.

We camped on a sandbar, getting caught in an afternoon thundershower that seemed to stall over the Broad. Though it forced us to huddle for an hour or more beneath a plastic tarp with our firewood, we were grateful for it. The Broad, undammed from its headwaters, needs all the help it can get when it comes to flows.

We inspect a Broad River helgamite, soon to be a dobson fly, or a meal for a fish.

The journey downriver was decidely dicey, requiring a discerning paddle to find the best route across the river’s shifting sands. Be forewarned, we were forced out of our canoe on more than one occasion…OK, perhaps a dozen occasions, but it wasn’t as bad as it was in 2008 when a similar trip convinced us that the Oostanaula would be a better choice for 2009 on the heels of a two year drought.

Our hope is that the weather patterns will dump adeqaute rain on the Broad’s northeast Georgia watershed and come June 19, 2010 there will be enough water to float us.

Check back soon for more news from the Broad.

Joe Cook

Aug. 29, 2009

Birds & Trees of the Coosawattee & Oostanaula Rivers

Observed by Bryan L. Nuse & Chris Skelton, during Tuesday, Wednesday, & Thursday of Paddle Georgia 2009.

Tuesday’s paddle included the lower stretch of the Coosawattee, which is mainly agricultural with limited riparian woods. Wednesday brought more pastureland as we joined the Conasauga and began the Oostanaula. By Thursday, however, adjacent uplands and bluffs became more common, as did larger tracts of riparian woodland. Note that birding & botanizing were not our primary occupations during our days paddling — these observations are casual and the abundance estimates in particular are very approximate.

For use on these lists, the following qualitative (and loose) index of abundance is defined:

A — Abundant — many encounters per river mile, on average

C — Common — a few encounters per river mile, on average

U — Uncommon — less than 1 encounter per river mile, on average

R — Rare — 1 (or less) to 2 encounters per day (where a day’s paddle is 14-17 river miles)

BIRDS– Great Blue Heron – U Green Heron – U Turkey Vulture – U Osprey – R [Bald Eagle ??] – R Red-shouldered Hawk – C Broad-winged Hawk – R Red-tailed Hawk – U Killdeer – R Mourning Dove – U Yellow-billed Cuckoo – U Chimney Swift – U Ruby-throated Hummingbird – U Belted Kingfisher – U Red-bellied Woodpecker – C Downy Woodpecker – U Pileated Woodpecker – U Acadian Flycatcher – U Eastern Phoebe – U Eastern Kingbird – U White-eyed Vireo – C Yellow-throated Vireo – R Red-eyed Vireo – C Blue Jay – R American Crow – C Fish Crow – U Cliff Swallow – C Barn Swallow – R Carolina Chickadee – A Tufted Titmouse – C Carolina Wren – A Blue-gray Gnatcatcher – U Eastern Bluebird – U American Robin – U European Starling – U Northern Parula – R Prothonotary Warbler – R Louisiana Waterthrush – R Kentucky Warbler – U Common Yellowthroat – U Yellow-breasted Chat – U Summer Tanager – R Eastern Towhee – U Chipping Sparrow – R Field Sparrow – R Song Sparrow – R Northern Cardinal – C Blue Grosbeak – C Indigo Bunting – A Red-winged Blackbird – R Common Grackle – R Brown-headed Cowbird – C American Goldfinch – R

TREES– (and a few notable shrubs) Aceraceae_____________________ Silver Maple – A Boxelder – A Florida Maple – U Betulaceae_____________________ River Birch – C Caprifoliaceae_____________________ Black Elderberry – C Cupressaceae_____________________ Eastern Redcedar – U Fabaceae______________________ Sourwood – U Fagaceae_________________________ Bitternut Hickory – U Shagbark Hickory – C ——————— American Beech – U ——————— White Oak – U Swamp Chestnut Oak – U Chinkapin Oak – R Cherrybark Oak – R Southern Red Oak – R Northern Red Oak – U Shumard’s Oak – R Scarlet Oak – R Willow Oak – R Darlington Oak – R Water Oak – U Oleaceae_____________________ Green Ash – A Chinese Privet – A Pinaceae_____________________ Loblolly Pine – U Virginia Pine – U Platanaceae_____________________ Sycamore – A Simaroubaceae_____________________ Tree of Heaven – U Styracaceae_____________________ Carolina Silverbell – U Tiliaceae_____________________ American Basswood – C Ulmacaeae_____________________ American/Slippery Elm – C [uncertain ID, probably both present] Sugarberry – A

92…err…96 miles, 7 days, 1 great time

After an unplanned excursion in the wrong direction on Carters Lake, Bonnie Putney "corrected" her event T-shirt.

The planned paddle route this year was 92 miles, but thanks to a snafu of navigation and an interesting dose of group think, some amongst our 300 strong paddling posse logged an additional four miles of paddling, and that episode probably rendered the week’s best lesson, but more on that later…

A day after packing everyone home from Ellijay and Rome, it’s time to reminisce and celebrate what we’ve accomplished.

The numbers we will document. Years from now that will be the “official record” of the trip. Some 350 paddlers participated, including almost 300 that paddled all seven days. The most successful Paddle Georgia to date, paddlers generated more than $16,000 for Georgia River Network, Coosawattee Watershed Alliance and New Echota Rivers Alliance through our Canoe-a-thon.

But these numbers can’t tell the rest of the story. They’ll never account for the experiences logged, the lives changed, the friendships made, the lessons learned.

Leaps of Faith

The plunge! A rope swing offers diversion on the Coosawattee River.

My goal for the week was to find something to jump from every day–a rope swing, a cliff, a tree–anything that would make me feel like the 16-year-old boy jumping from the Palisades on the Chattahoochee where I first learned to love a river. Thankfully, the Coosawattee and Oostanaula did not disappoint. 

There is something primal about jumping from high places into water. It is more than just a simple rush of adrenalin. It’s leaping back to where we came from–water–and leaping into an uncertain future–trusting that something bigger than us will land us safely whereever we go. Every leap is a lesson in the proper prosecution of life.   

Amidst the shoals and rapids of the Upper Coosawattee, we found a deep hole with a rope swing and tree. I couldn’t pass it up, and soon, my daughter Ramsey, and her friend, Jessa, followed. They hesitated on the bark-covered brink of the leap, “This is so scary. I can’t do it.” But, with coaxing and faith in their fathers that the landing would be safe, they jumped, emerging from the surface of the river yelling, “that was so much fun. Can we do it again?”

And, that is how life is supposed to be lived. We cannot experience joy and exhiliration without first overcoming our fear. Nothing worthy of our time and attention comes without that leap of faith.

Alan Crawford manuvers through the whitewater of the Upper Coosawattee.

Among those on the trip this year was my friend, Alan Crawford, who I have come to know through his volunteerism at the Coosa River Basin Initiative. Alan grew into something of a rock star on the trip, interviewed by countless media types wanting to tell his story. Alan became the first paraplegic to participate in Paddle Georgia. On the river, you wouldn’t know Alan is a wheelchair user–the river levels the playing field for paras.

That said, the consequences of a spill in whitewater are amplified for paras. Able-bodied paddlers are told to get their feet up in the event of a capsize in rushing water to avoid a dangerous foot entrapment, but that simple manuver is difficult to apply to paras. As Alan joked, “If I capsize, you can change my name to “Bob”"

"The Crawford Crawler" in action. A specially-designed boat launch and friends helped Crawford enter and exit the river each day--even in locations with very steep banks and no boat ramps.

Throw in the challenges of getting on and off our shuttle buses, launching his kayak from less-than-desireable locations, and taking care of rudimentary daily chores in unfamiliar surroundings, and you have enough ingredients of the unknown to bake a pound cake of fear.

But, Alan, with the determination of a 10-year-old staring at a 15-foot plunge into the murky waters of the Coosawattee, leapt.

Crawford shows off a bass caught on the Coosawattee.

In his plunge, he found his own fortitude–stroking through the whitewater without a spill and paddling all 92 miles of the trip. He found friends like Rob Garber and Josh Noe–helping to lift him on to buses each morning and evening. He found a river–welcoming him with its refreshing water indifferent to his ailment. He even found some dance moves–joining the heel-kicking throngs of paddlers with his spins and turns during the Contra dance. He found fish and hooked them, and, seven days later, I think he’d overcome fear and found a little joy. 

Funny how a man that cannot leap showed us how to do it properly.

 

 

Lessons for the Directionally Challenged

Dan and Carol McNavish finish their traverse of Carters Lake at the damsite.

Day 2 of our trip dawned bright and clear, guaranteeing a steamy day of paddling across Carters Lake. A first for Paddle Georgia, the prospect of lake paddling had me concerned about motorboat traffic, strong winds and lightning storms. I never would have envisioned what proved to be the biggest challenge of the day.

We shoved off from the cove which most of our floatilla had paddled into the previous day and headed for the main river channel determined to lick the lake before the mid-day heat sapped us and afternoon thunderstorms arrived.

I had paddled this same course just a week earlier and knew it well–hang a right at the main channel, paddle around the next corner and enter the main body of the lake. Simple. But when we arrived at the main channel the entourage of canoes and kayaks was moving steadily east–to the left–not to the right.

Ramsey Cook and Jessa Goldman drift along in a tube behind our canoe.

I did a double take–looked right and for a split second thought I was entirely lost. Why was everyone headed into the sun? Did I miss something in my previous scouting trips? I inspected at my map again, and confirmed the unthinkable–dozens of boats were headed in the wrong direction. How many? And, had they reached the rapids where the river spills into the lake yet?

I yelled at the top of my lungs, “You’re going the wrong way!!!!” A few heads turned, the message was relayed up river and those within earshot righted their wayward wanderings. As I passed them paddling up river to collect everyone, the bleating of sheep and jokes about lemmings jumping off of cliffs rang from the vessels along with grumblings about maps, the lack of distance markers and the deficiency of directions.

Despite a wrong turn on Carters Lake, Dan McNavish still found time to find a shaved ice treat from a lakeside vendor.

Carol McNavish, in a speedy touring kayak, paddled nearly three miles up river turning back the tide of wrong-way paddlers. I followed in hot pursuit in my lumbering canoe. Together, we collected dozens of misguided adventurers.

In their defense, the lead boats in this snafu did not paddle this section of river the previous day, opting to use the six-mile take out on Day1. Having not seen the terrain the previous day, it’s easy to see how they strayed. The same cannot be said for the boats that followed:

“We argued about it. I thought we were going the wrong way.”

“We looked at the map, but everyone else was heading that way so we just followed.” 

“I was just following the herd. I figued they knew where they were going.”

At the front the leaders shrugged, “We weren’t sure if we were going right, but when we saw everyone follow us, we figured we were on the right path.”

And, from this came the trip’s most poignant lesson.

Dave & Jessa Goldman battle wind and motorboat wakes on Carters Lake.

Watching the paddlers trudge back across water they were seeing now for the third time, I was reminded of a nugget of wisdom attributed to Benjamin Franklin: “If everyone is thinking alike then no one is thinking.” In fact, world history is wrought with stories of charismatic leaders leading whole countries to ruin–see Adolf Hitler.

Of course, there are also stories of “group think” leading in more postive directions. In fact, the experts will tell you if you want to illicit certain behavior in people, the most effective way to achieve your goal is to show them other people doing the same.

Want people to recycle?–show them a neighbor taking his to the curb.

Want people to conserve water?–show them a friend installing a low flow toilet.

Want to clean up a river?–let your neighbors hear you on in the six o’clock news telling a legislator to pass a law protecting our rivers.

Let Go!!!! And let yourself take a leap of faith into creating stronger communities and cleaner rivers!

Change begins with individuals. Just as two wayward kayaks led an entire Navy astray so too can two strong voices change the course of our communites or our rivers.

This is a lesson that will sustain our efforts to keep Georgia’s rivers flowing clear and clean long after Paddle Georgia’s Canoe-a-thon money is spent on projects to clean up the Coosawattee and Oostanaula rivers.

Thanks to all of you who participated in Paddle Georgia 2009. I hope you return to your homes determined to make a difference in your community and in your watershed.  Generally, all it requires is thinking and leaping.

And, mark your calendars for Paddle Georgia 2010 June 19-25 on the Broad and Savannah rivers.

Joe Cook

June 28, 2009

And, now a parting shot…

GRN Executive Director Eaten by Kayak-Car Amalgam

After securing 300 paddlers safety across Carters Lake, Georgia River Network Executive Director April Ingle gets taken by man-eating kayak-car amalgam.

A Circumnavigation of Carters Lake

Carters Dam dwarfs paddlers. It is the tallest earthen dam east of the Mississippi.

Only 12 days remain before Paddle Georgia 2009 kicks off in Ellijay June 20. The Georgia River Network crew and I are feverishly working to get everything ready to go. Tonight, I am feverishly working, for I am burnt from head to toe–the consequences of a 15-mile kayak circumnavigation of Carters Lake. It seems the kayak paddling position exposes different parts of the body to the sun than does the canoe paddling position! And, it should also be noted that there is no escape from the sun in the big open water of Carters Lake.

That said, as lakes go, Carters is a beautiful one (so long as you don’t dwell on the beautiful whitewater and canyon that is buried beneath the 400-foot deep reservoir). The banks of the lake are undeveloped. There are no private docks and homes crowding the shore. The water is clear and inviting. The views are spectacular–to the northwest looms Ft. Mountain and the Cohutta Wilderness.

This tiny island on Carters Lake is home to two heron nests.

Today my route started at Carters Dam and our take out for Day 2. I paddled up lake to our Day 2 launch site and then back again, checking out the amenities–a marina store with AC and goodies, a beach with a shaved ice vendor and even flush toilets–a rarity for pit stops on Paddle Georgia.  I explored Flat Creek and Tails Creek, tributaries near the lake’s backwaters that gave glimpses of the type streams that filled this area prior to the impoundment of the river. I felt Liliputian in the shadows of the dam and the mountain that was blasted to make way for the turbines and powerhouse. I rocked with the motorboat waves. And, now, I am quite exhausted…both from the paddling and the sunburn.

The good news is that the jaunt across the lake should be enjoyable. It took me just three hours to make the seven mile paddle from Ridgeway Boat Ramp to Carters Dam–and this with a few stops along the way. This should give us plenty of time to explore the lake, swim along its shores, venture on to its islands, buy a soda at the marina and, perhaps, a shaved ice at the beach.

The Corps of Engineers' Harris Branch beach makes for a nice stop at mid-lake.

In general, river paddlers rarely venture on lakes–I think we are inherently lazy that way. Why work to get from point A to point B when the river can do it for you?  

The lake does no work for you–aside from piping electricity into your home. To move, you must paddle. I found the rhythm of the strokes and the rocking of the water almost hypnotic and when I closed my eyes I could feel myself nodding off. It reminded me of my family’s paddle down the Etowah when Ramsey was just three years old.

Through 160-miles of travel on that 26-day trip, Ramsey fell asleep in the canoe just once…on Lake Allatoona. On the river, there was always something to entertain. The landscape, the sun, the wind changed with each bend. On the lake there is only the monotony of miles of water–the landscape changes at a snail’s pace and our native river critters are few and far between.

Drifting down a river, you float on a living creature, snaking its way to the sea. Muscling your way across a lake feels like traveling across a corpse. But, maybe that’s just me–I’m partial to flowing rivers.

Tails Creek spills into the lake. Accessible via canoe and kayak, the mouth of Tails Creek gives us a glimpse of what this area looked like prior to the impoundment of the river.

We chose to paddle the length of the lake this year to illustrate what’s lost (and what’s gained) when we dam free-flowing rivers. I know river paddlers, especially whitewater enthusiasts, will balk at paddling the lake (that’s one reason I paddled solo today–”the lake?” they asked when I offered, “uhhh, I think I’ll pass.”) but part of the mission of Paddle Georgia is to show our rivers in all their various forms.

That’s the beauty of the paddling extended distances. For even in its pent-up form behind Carters Dam, the Coosawattee spills out across the land, swallowing hollows and draws and the acres of water is beautiful in its own right.

But, a word to the wise…if you are paddling tandem, make sure your partner doesn’t nod off to the rocking of the water.

In other news…

Helmets–Some 230 helmets have been ordered through our sponsor, The Outside World. As we venture down the Coosawattee June 20, we will, indeed, look like a Navy–all with matching hats.

Canoe-a-thon–More than $8000 has been raised through the Canoe-a-thon thus far; it’s shaping up to be a record year! Participants should know that the Canoe-a-thon grand prize this year is an Old Town Camper 15 with Royalex construction and a retail value of more than $1400. Take a look at it: http://www.oldtowncanoe.com/canoes/generalFamily/camper_15.html And if you haven’t started raising money yet, it’s not too late. Go to www.firstgiving.com/garivers and set up your fundraising page now!

Bald Eagle Sighting–On Saturday, June 6, during a scouting trip with Georgia Canoeing Association members on the Upper Coosawattee, our group was treated to a visitation by a bald eagle. We chased it down river on two occasions. It finally decided against further flight and held its ground in a tall pine while we drifted by admiring it. It seemed unimpressed with us.

See you June 20

Joe Cook

June 7, 2009

Upper Coosawattee From A Kid’s Perspective

Doc Stephens and Vincent Payne navigate a ledge near the mouth of Mountaintown Creek.

Today, we once again tackled the Upper Coosawattee and Day 1 of Paddle Georgia, scouting the best routes through the rapids and the most important places to station safety boats. For those of you who have already read your Paddler Info Packet, you’ll remember this as the section with Class II rapids that will have everyone wearing helmets in accordance with American Canoe Association insurance requirements.

My 10-year-old daughter Ramsey joined us for this trip–her first real whitewater experience–so she’s the guest blogger today. Take it away Ramsey.

Ramsey finds a seat in a riverside waterfall.

So my dad just explained what I did for my day. Whitewater paddling! Just so you know it is probably the scariest thing that you could do on the river but that’s what makes it fun. The awesome thing is that you think that you are going to flip. In the end you don’t ….. most of the time. If you flip there will be people that can help you get out of the water and save all of your stuff from floating downstream. If you’re wondering if we flipped, my dad and I almost did, but we didn’t! 

You’ll also probably see lots of snakes, but they aren’t venomous. We saw lots today, and if you scroll down you can see a photo of one. Some other cool things that you can find are balls–all kinds of balls. Soccer balls, basketballs, tennis balls…. my point is that you can use them because they’re still in good condition. One time my dad even found a football that was perfect.  Today, we found a perfect soccer ball.

Ramsey with her quarry--a still growing turtle--on Carters Lake.

Around the end of the trip there’s an awesome waterfall that you can sit on or slide down….. not from the very top though! In the last few miles I saw lots of different things.  One of those things was a baby turtle that we were able to catch and look at for a few minutes. The last three miles are on Carters Lake. It’s really relaxing because there aren’t any rapids or sounds with the exception of a few motorboats. The motorboats send off waves that make your boat rock back and fourth.

Anyways my conclusion is that it is the most fun paddle trip I’ve been on. My first paddle trip was when I was one-year-old so you can imagine how many I’ve been on. IT WAS AWESOME IN EVERY WAY THAT YOU CAN THINK OF.

Ramsey Cook, May 24, 2009

Indeed, Ramsey had a swell time today on the river, as did the rest of the gang: April Ingle, Peter Morgan, Vincent Payne, Doc Stephens, Larry Castillo and Bob Beaullieu.

The river was running at 1.8 feet which, to my way of thinking, would be about the ideal level for Paddle Georgia, so we’ll keep out fingers crossed for steady rain between now and June 20. And, as Ramsey apdtly put it, this is an awesome run. Experienced paddlers will have fun in the Coosawattee’s rapids; novices will to, but don’t be surprised if you take some swims.

A snake elicits a reaction from April Ingle.

The good news is that the largest rapid in the first six miles of the trip (a Class II that we’ve dubbed “American Flag Rapid”) is easily portaged. And,  for those that wish to bypass the more challenging rapids further downstream, we are offering a six-mile take out that provides an abbreviated, but just as enjoyable first day’s paddle.

Paddle Georgia is now less than a month away. We’re sold out, geared up and raring to go. See you in Ellijay next month!

Joe Cook

May 24, 2009

You Never Step in the Same River Twice

Richard Grove slides through one of the Upper Coosawattee's rapids.

Today, we scouted once again Day 1 of Paddle Georgia 2009 on the Coosawattee River. When last we set paddle in this river, it was flowing at 1.6 feet on the Ellijay gauge. Today, the river lapped at the 2.7 foot mark. Two inches of rain fell in the area Friday, swelling the river and washing out the technical rapids that kept us on our toes back in November.  Today, there was no diffculty finding routes through the shoals. Instead, we pointed nose downstream and rode out the waves. It’s true: you never step in the same river twice.

The run reinforced the need for all our paddlers to be prepared. Unlike previous Paddle Georgia journeys in which Class I rapids were the norm, the Coosawattee does throw Class II rapids at us. If your expereince on whitewater is limited, try making some runs on fast moving water this spring in preparation for PG Day 1.

Bella the dog hitches a ride down the Coosawattee's shoals.

To insure a safe trip, we’re taking two special precautions:

1. An alternative six-mile trip on Day 1 will be offered so that novice paddlers can avoid the biggest whitewater located between mile 6 and mile 9, yet still enjoy the beauty of this run while getting a taste of the white stuff.  

2. Due to ACA insurance requirements, everyone must wear a helmet on Day 1. This includes those taking out at the six-mile mark as there is one Class II rapid in that section.

For those wishing to take the six-mile take out, we’ll have a shuttle bus and a canoe trailer waiting for you. The trailer will take your boat to the Day 2 launch site, and the bus will return you to our campsite, Gilmer County High School, where you can relax, take part in a river festival being held in town that day, and take in one of a pair of interesting tours being offered by the Gilmer County Chamber of Commerce.

Georgia River Network, through the help of our sponsor, The Outside World, will be offering a special group rate on helmets so that you may purchase or rent a helmet at a reasonable rate. Details on this offer will be included in registration packets which will be sent to you this week.

The highlight of the day, aside from the big waves, were the waterfalls.

High water provided paddle access to this waterfall on a Coosawattee tributary in the backwaters of Carters Lake.

High water and full tributaries provided access to several waterfalls a short paddle up a tributary  or a short hike up riverside trails.

Along the paddle route numerous tributaries offer a chance to see small waterfalls spill down to the river, and at the Ridgeway Boat Ramp (Day 1 take out), a Corps of Engineers trail leads about a half mile to a beautiful falls and swimming hole on Tails Creek. Hopefully, in June there will still be enough water flowing to enjoy these special places.

The Tumbling Waters Trail at Ridgeway Boat Ramp leads to this viewpoint of Tails Creek.

In other planning news…registration packets coming to you within the week will include a full slate of special tours that will be offered this year during Paddle Georgia. You’ll have the opportunity to visit apple orchards in Ellijay, organic farms in Ranger, historic sites in Calhoun and Rome and you’ll even have the opportunity to participate in an active archaeological dig.

On food…everyone’s favorite caterer, Satterfield’s from Macon, will bring their food to North Georgia for us, providing dinners and lunches. ..I know that many said they actually gained weight during Paddle Georgia last year, in large part thanks to Satterfield’s banana pudding and other delights.

Sponsor Kettle Chips returns for the second year. Kettle Chips are by far the best chips I’ve ever put in my mouth, and I’m not just saying that because they’re a sponsor! Looking forward to having them back in our lunches!

And, one more plug…the Coosa River Basin Initiative’s WATERFEST IX event takes place this weekend, April 17-18, at Ridge Ferry Park in Rome. The event includes a 13-mile paddle/race down the Oostanaula River, Georgia’s only Canoe and Kayak Tug-O-Wars, a live snake show, live music and the world’s largest portable aquarium. Learn more and register for one of the paddling events at www.coosa.org.

See you in June.

Joe Cook

April 11, 2009

Paddle Georgia and the Flint in National News!

Paddle GA on CNN.com

Paddle Georgia is on CNN.com today in a story by John Branch. The story is about Paddle Georgia as an environmentally and economically friendly vacation. We still have spots left, so if you are interested visit the Paddle Georgia website.

Read the story at http://www.cnn.com/2009/TRAVEL/getaways/04/08/paddle.georgia.trip/index.html.

 

 

Flint River Named #2 Most Endangered River in America by American Rivers
For more information and to take action to support the Flint, visit http://www.americanrivers.org/our-work/protecting-rivers/endangered-rivers/2009/flint.html

The site has some great photos taken by Joe Cook, Paddle GA Coordinator.  Paddle Georgia was held on the Flint in 2008.

CNN.com covered this story in their science section at http://www.cnn.com/2009/TECH/science/04/07/rivers.endangered.list/index.html