
Carters Dam dwarfs paddlers. It is the tallest earthen dam east of the Mississippi.
Only 12 days remain before Paddle Georgia 2009 kicks off in Ellijay June 20. The Georgia River Network crew and I are feverishly working to get everything ready to go. Tonight, I am feverishly working, for I am burnt from head to toe–the consequences of a 15-mile kayak circumnavigation of Carters Lake. It seems the kayak paddling position exposes different parts of the body to the sun than does the canoe paddling position! And, it should also be noted that there is no escape from the sun in the big open water of Carters Lake.
That said, as lakes go, Carters is a beautiful one (so long as you don’t dwell on the beautiful whitewater and canyon that is buried beneath the 400-foot deep reservoir). The banks of the lake are undeveloped. There are no private docks and homes crowding the shore. The water is clear and inviting. The views are spectacular–to the northwest looms Ft. Mountain and the Cohutta Wilderness.

This tiny island on Carters Lake is home to two heron nests.
Today my route started at Carters Dam and our take out for Day 2. I paddled up lake to our Day 2 launch site and then back again, checking out the amenities–a marina store with AC and goodies, a beach with a shaved ice vendor and even flush toilets–a rarity for pit stops on Paddle Georgia. I explored Flat Creek and Tails Creek, tributaries near the lake’s backwaters that gave glimpses of the type streams that filled this area prior to the impoundment of the river. I felt Liliputian in the shadows of the dam and the mountain that was blasted to make way for the turbines and powerhouse. I rocked with the motorboat waves. And, now, I am quite exhausted…both from the paddling and the sunburn.
The good news is that the jaunt across the lake should be enjoyable. It took me just three hours to make the seven mile paddle from Ridgeway Boat Ramp to Carters Dam–and this with a few stops along the way. This should give us plenty of time to explore the lake, swim along its shores, venture on to its islands, buy a soda at the marina and, perhaps, a shaved ice at the beach.

The Corps of Engineers' Harris Branch beach makes for a nice stop at mid-lake.
In general, river paddlers rarely venture on lakes–I think we are inherently lazy that way. Why work to get from point A to point B when the river can do it for you?
The lake does no work for you–aside from piping electricity into your home. To move, you must paddle. I found the rhythm of the strokes and the rocking of the water almost hypnotic and when I closed my eyes I could feel myself nodding off. It reminded me of my family’s paddle down the Etowah when Ramsey was just three years old.
Through 160-miles of travel on that 26-day trip, Ramsey fell asleep in the canoe just once…on Lake Allatoona. On the river, there was always something to entertain. The landscape, the sun, the wind changed with each bend. On the lake there is only the monotony of miles of water–the landscape changes at a snail’s pace and our native river critters are few and far between.
Drifting down a river, you float on a living creature, snaking its way to the sea. Muscling your way across a lake feels like traveling across a corpse. But, maybe that’s just me–I’m partial to flowing rivers.

Tails Creek spills into the lake. Accessible via canoe and kayak, the mouth of Tails Creek gives us a glimpse of what this area looked like prior to the impoundment of the river.
We chose to paddle the length of the lake this year to illustrate what’s lost (and what’s gained) when we dam free-flowing rivers. I know river paddlers, especially whitewater enthusiasts, will balk at paddling the lake (that’s one reason I paddled solo today–”the lake?” they asked when I offered, “uhhh, I think I’ll pass.”) but part of the mission of Paddle Georgia is to show our rivers in all their various forms.
That’s the beauty of the paddling extended distances. For even in its pent-up form behind Carters Dam, the Coosawattee spills out across the land, swallowing hollows and draws and the acres of water is beautiful in its own right.
But, a word to the wise…if you are paddling tandem, make sure your partner doesn’t nod off to the rocking of the water.
In other news…
Helmets–Some 230 helmets have been ordered through our sponsor, The Outside World. As we venture down the Coosawattee June 20, we will, indeed, look like a Navy–all with matching hats.
Canoe-a-thon–More than $8000 has been raised through the Canoe-a-thon thus far; it’s shaping up to be a record year! Participants should know that the Canoe-a-thon grand prize this year is an Old Town Camper 15 with Royalex construction and a retail value of more than $1400. Take a look at it: http://www.oldtowncanoe.com/canoes/generalFamily/camper_15.html And if you haven’t started raising money yet, it’s not too late. Go to www.firstgiving.com/garivers and set up your fundraising page now!
Bald Eagle Sighting–On Saturday, June 6, during a scouting trip with Georgia Canoeing Association members on the Upper Coosawattee, our group was treated to a visitation by a bald eagle. We chased it down river on two occasions. It finally decided against further flight and held its ground in a tall pine while we drifted by admiring it. It seemed unimpressed with us.
See you June 20
Joe Cook
June 7, 2009